Beneath the valleys of Cappadocia lies a second landscape: entire towns carved into the soft volcanic rock, several storeys deep, with stables, kitchens, chapels, wells and air shafts. Dozens of underground settlements are known in the region; a few are open to visitors, and walking through them is one of the strangest and most memorable experiences in Turkey.
Why were they built?
Cappadocia’s tuff is soft enough to carve with hand tools and hardens on contact with air. The first chambers may go back to antiquity, and the cities were expanded over many centuries, especially in the Byzantine period, when local Christian communities used them as refuges during raids. Large round stone doors could be rolled across the passages from the inside, and ventilation shafts kept air moving down to the lowest levels.
Kaymaklı or Derinkuyu?
Kaymaklı
Broad and maze-like, with several levels open to visitors and low, narrow passages between them. You see stables, a church, storage rooms, wineries and kitchens blackened by smoke. It is about 20 minutes from Göreme and the city most tours visit.
Derinkuyu
Deeper rather than wider: the city reaches around 85 metres underground, and only part of it is open. The descent is steeper, with long stairways down to a cross-shaped chapel and a ventilation shaft that runs through every level. It is a little further south of Kaymaklı on the same road.
One is enough for most travellers. Choose Kaymaklı for variety and a shorter visit, Derinkuyu for the sense of depth.
Quieter alternatives
Özkonak, north of Avanos, and Mazı, near Ürgüp, are smaller and far less busy, with the same rolling stone doors and narrow tunnels. They suit travellers who want to avoid groups.
What to expect inside
Low ceilings and tight passages: you will stoop and sometimes crouch. If you are claustrophobic, stay in the upper levels or wait above; the visit is not for everyone.
Cool, stable air: the temperature stays fresh all year, a relief in summer; bring a light layer.
Stairs and uneven floors: wear flat shoes with grip. Children usually love it, but keep them close.
Timing: allow about an hour, and come early or late to avoid queues in the narrowest passages.
Combine with the rest of Cappadocia
An underground city fits easily into a day with Avanos, Pigeon Valley or a valley walk. Our Cappadocia travel guide suggests how to spend two or three days in the region, and our balloon guide covers the dawn flights.
With KAMPA Tours & Events
Kaymaklı Underground City is part of the guided programme on Turkey: Off the Beaten Path, Highlights of Turkey + Antalya and Highlights of Turkey in winter, with a local guide who explains how the city worked. On a private trip we can choose a quieter site instead.
